Shetland, Holiday planning, History Eleanor Stones Shetland, Holiday planning, History Eleanor Stones

Foula’s Festive traditions & a guide to visiting

Lying about 20 miles west of Shetland, Foula is one of the UK’s most remote islands, and arguably the most isolated of any island in the UK. With a population of about 35, many thousands of birds, and five square miles to explore, Foula has an ‘edge of the world’ feel and will leave a lasting impression on those who visit.

Sitting alone in the vast, often unforgiving expanse of the North Atlantic, Foula looms from the horizon and is visible on a clear day from most parts of Shetland’s west coast. Its looming silhouette represents the last outpost of the UK, a final frontier. Echoing noisily with the sound of hundreds of thousands of seabirds in summer, and hard to access in winter as its name suggests – the word Foula comes from the Old Norse Fugley, meaning ‘bird island.’

Read More
History, Shetland Eleanor Stones History, Shetland Eleanor Stones

Spine-tingling tales from Lerwick

With Hallowe’en upon us, I wanted to take a look at some of the spine-tingling and tragic tales from Lerwick. Last year, I explored Shetland’s haunted places, and this year, I wanted to focus on our capital town, Lerwick. Lerwick grew from the 1600s with Dutch fishermen coming here every summer to begin their summer herring fishery. The first mention of Lerwick came in 1625 when the lawmakers in Scalloway expressed concern about the lawlessness displayed in Lerwick, where smuggling, drinking, theft, assault and prostitution were cited as grounds to raze Lerwick to the ground.

Read More
Walks, Shetland, History, Holiday planning Eleanor Stones Walks, Shetland, History, Holiday planning Eleanor Stones

Hiking Papa Stour’s dramatic west coast

A mile offshore from Sandness, accessible several times a week by ferry from West Burrafirth, is Papa Stour, known locally as Papa. The name comes from the Old Norse language, meaning ‘the great island of the priests’. The island is geologically fascinating, formed from volcanic ash and lava, which is a real gift to hikers seeking the drama, allure and breathtaking vistas offered by the incredible coastline.

This fertile and lush island had a population of 382 in 1841, which has declined steadily over the past 40 years. Today, the 15 or so permanent residents no longer have a school or shop, and there are few facilities on the island for visitors beyond the Ferry Waiting Room and church, which is undergoing renovation. Despite this, Papa is an island that calls to be explored, offering endless hours of enjoyment along its rugged coastline. The main settlement centres around the ferry harbour on the fertile east coast of the island at Housa Voe.

Read More
Book Reviews, History Eleanor Stones Book Reviews, History Eleanor Stones

Book Review: The Salt Roads: How Fish made a Culture by John Goodlad

John’s perspective is unique in a modern socio-political context; he can look to the past for lessons while keeping a firm eye on the horizon and the future. He is neither bogged down in the past nor blinkered by the present. Much of what he discusses has a subtly woven political thread, hinting at his personal views and politics, yet they are never jarring or out of context. He has an innate ability to weave everything back to the fishing – an indication that this industry is fundamental to the very survival of our island communities.

Read More

Review: Shorehaven, Burrafirth, Unst review and itinerary for your stay

Shorehaven, where we were to spend the weekend, dates back to 1854 when Hermaness Lighthouse was built to aid navigation. Clinging to the hostile slopes of Muckle Flugga, a rocky outcrop off the north coast of Unst, Britain's most northerly lighthouse still shines a guiding light across the water to those at sea – Shorehaven forms part of the story of this iconic lighthouse.

Read More

Up Helly Aa – top tips for enjoying Shetland’s festival of fire

Throughout Shetland, from January to March, the islands celebrate the festival of Up Helly Aa, with 12 Fire Festival and Up Helly Aa celebrations punctuating the darkness of winter with fiery processions, Viking dress and the world-renowned all-night parties that follow the burning of a Viking longship.

Read More
History, Shetland, Simple living Eleanor Stones History, Shetland, Simple living Eleanor Stones

Christmas and New Year in Shetland past

In a few days time, just as we are taking down the Christmas decorations, and boxing them up for another year, Foula, our most westerly island will celebrate Christmas.

In the past, Christmas in Shetland meant something very different; we even held it on a different day. Known as Yule, it was a time of celebration and tradition, much of it stemming from pagan rituals and beliefs.

Today, Foula is one of the last places to celebrate the old calendar dates for Christmas and New Year celebrations, on the 6th and 13th of January.

Read More
History, Walks, Shetland Eleanor Stones History, Walks, Shetland Eleanor Stones

Shetland’s haunted places

Tomorrow is hallowe’en, that time of the year when the veil between this world and the next is at its thinnest, and we can expect to experience the most paranormal activity. Shetland had its own unique blend of hallowe'en tradition influenced by Christianity, with its roots firmly placed in old pagan customs.

Read More

A day in Whalsay with the Heritage Centre and friends

Symbister Harbour, Whalsay Every great adventure starts with a boat, surely? It certainly feels like that as you dart north, rushing to make the ferry on time, watching the clock anxiously and praying you don't meet a tractor en route.The Whalsay ferry has an altogether different feel to the North Isles ferries; the journey is longer, and booking is strongly recommended if you want to ensure you arrive – and depart – on the ferry you've chosen. It also has a more 'Shetland' f [...]

Read More

Peerie Bugarth self-catering holiday home; an itinerary for your Yell stay.

The beautiful Peerie Bugarth, a gem of a property available for holiday let in Mid Yell I often drive past traditional Shetland crofthouses and wonder what they’re like inside. These are buildings that have fascinated me since I was little. Their simple lines, symmetry, and the way they bed into the landscape almost seamlessly continues to inspire my imagination in the same – perhaps less visually attractive way – that they continue to inspire artists and poets to commi [...]

Read More
Book Reviews, History Eleanor Stones Book Reviews, History Eleanor Stones

Book Review – The Sandness Story

Sandness is the most westerly frontier of Mainland Shetland. It has the distinct feeling of being an island rather than part of the Mainland due to its relative geographical isolation from Lerwick. The boundaries of Sandness are clear and the community has the same tight-knit feel that you would expect to find on any of the outlying islands, where a bond of community exists that has, in many ways, been lost from the rest of Mainland Shetland.Ian Tait describes Sandness’ position w [...]

Read More
Book Reviews, History Eleanor Stones Book Reviews, History Eleanor Stones

Book review – Old Lerwick: Lanes and Lodberries

Old Lerwick Old Lerwick: Lanes and Lodberries by Douglas Sinclair is the long-anticipated follow on from Old Lerwick: People and Places published in 2017. Douglas Sinclair is a Lerwegian and historian who grew up in the historic south end of Lerwick and has spent most of his life living in the heart of Lerwick, immersing himself in the history, the people and the places. He has dedicated much of his adult life to unearthing and telling the stories of the town – in fact if you&rsquo [...]

Read More
History, Holiday planning, Accommodation reviews, Walks Eleanor Stones History, Holiday planning, Accommodation reviews, Walks Eleanor Stones

A weekend getaway and a walk to the Muckle Roe lighthouse

Busta House Hotel I woke on the night and heard footsteps – it was her – I nudged my husband and said, “ssshhh, can you hear her?”I was on high alert, we were staying in the West Wing of Busta House Hotel, and I knew that this was part of the building she haunted. Busta sits, tucked away on the shores of Busta Voe, just a few miles from the village of Brae. Today it’s a three-star hotel placed in an idyllic rural location in one of Shetland’s most b [...]

Read More
History, Holiday planning Eleanor Stones History, Holiday planning Eleanor Stones

13 facts about Jarlshof

Late Iron Age wheelhouses at Jarlshof Jarlshof, sitting at the southernmost point of Mainland Shetland, is a fascinating archaeological site spanning some 5,000 years, outlining the various stages of human habitation in the islands. The site is complicated and complex, yet fascinating and awe-inspiring – in fact, this is my favourite site on the Mainland to guide visitors around. Jarlshof is mind-blowing. It's a site that will immediately put you in your place. It has the [...]

Read More
Book Reviews, History, Shetland Eleanor Stones Book Reviews, History, Shetland Eleanor Stones

Book Review: In Days Gone By by Charlie Simpson

In Days Gone ByCharlie SimpsonThe Shetland Times (2021)Buy it hereIn Days Gone By, Charlie Simpson’s latest book is a newly published collection of essays that Charlie has written over the years and published in the Shetland Times newspaper. Across 20 pieces, Charlie covers much of 20th-century life in Shetland, from salt herring and wartime sinkings to developing the islands’ infrastructure and services. From a social history point of view, I found the [...]

Read More
History, Shetland Eleanor Stones History, Shetland Eleanor Stones

A traditional Shetland Christmas past - Gӧd Yule

Shetland Crofthouse Museum under a dusting of festive snow Christmas in Shetland is something I’m asked about time and time again. What does Christmas in Shetland look like? What traditions do you have? What do you eat, and so on. And, to be honest – it looks a lot like Christmas all over the world, and certainly throughout the UK. We have the John Lewis advert, Wham, Buble and the great hunking turkey on the day. We’ve lost so many of our Christmas traditions over [...]

Read More
Book Reviews, History, Shetland Eleanor Stones Book Reviews, History, Shetland Eleanor Stones

Book review: A Family at War; 1914-1918 by Margaret Stuart

Over 100 years have passed since the guns of the First World War fell silent over the battlefields of Europe. This week, I always think about the terrible loss of life – in both the First War and all wars.I wrote extensively about the First World War after making it a personal mission during the centenary years to research and remember those who fought for King and country during that bloody war.In the past, I’ve shared; a family story and a recipe for Trench Cake, a tragic [...]

Read More
History, Shetland, Walks Eleanor Stones History, Shetland, Walks Eleanor Stones

A walk to the Burraness Broch, Yell

Burraness Broch, Yell For visitors to Shetland, there are usually several requirements on their wish lists, including; scenery, wildlife and archaeology. The following walk is a fantastic way to explore all three of these on a moderate three-mile walk.For this walk, we walked to the Burraness Broch on the island of Yell. Yell is just a short hop across Yell Sound on the modern inter-island ferry. The crossing takes about 15 minutes, and passengers can stand on the upper deck, enjoying pa [...]

Read More

More about Shetland

Shetland is in my blood. Visit my blog for local insights, tips and advice.

Accommodation Reviews